Turkey with olives and Capers (Spezzato di Tacchino)

on

 

Turkey with olives and Capers (Spezzato di Tacchino)

“Turkey is a new world bird, so was not known in Europe until after 1492. At some point the birds became available in Italy and were sparsely incorporated into local cuisines. This recipe is in the style of an Umbrian preparation which uses the local sweet black olives which for some reason are known there as olive bianche or “white olives”. It is similar to the version of chicken cacciatore made there which has NO tomatoes or cheese and is flavored by the olives, garlic and herbs. Because it is difficult and costly to get those olives here in the States, I improvise by using other imported varieties and even add capers. This recipe is relatively easy but braising the turkey parts in these ingredients makes it taste like a restaurant dish! 

‘Spezzato’ means ‘parts’ and theoretically any turkey parts (or chicken) would work, but I find that braising breast meat makes it a little dry so I use dark meat, such as legs, thighs or wings or a combination of, which are often available in the poultry section of the meat case in the supermarket. If you can go to a turkey farm or get a free range bird, all the better. I like to break down a whole bird and select the parts I want to braise. I usually roast the breast and make stiock with the trimmings, like the back and wing tips.

Because we are doing turkey parts here, this dish is great for a buffet style gathering or even a big game watching party.”

Serves 2-6 depending on the parts selected.

Ingredients:

  • 2-6 Turkey parts, such as wings, thighs or legs. Don’t season them.

  • ⅓ cup of olive oil or vegetable oil

  • Several garlic cloves, peeled

  • 2 stalks of celery with nice leaves attached, chopped, including the leaves

  • 2 small carrots, diced

  • Sprigs of fresh herbs, such as parsley, rosemary, sage, thyme, etc.

  • Hot pepper flakes or diced small chiles, such as jalapeno or serrano. (optional)

  • Dry white wine (prefreable one from umbria, such as Orvieto or Trebbiano)

  • Stock. (Have at least 1 ½ cups on hand)

Procedure:

  1. Wash and dry the parts. If using legs, sever the tendons with a sharp knife* (See cooks notes)

  2. In a large sauté pan or dutch oven*, heat the oil over moderate heat and gently brown one of the garlic cloves whole. When it is browned on both sides, remove it.

  3. Turn the heat up to medium high and add the turkey pieces in one layer but do not crowd the pan.  You want to sear them, not steam them, so work with several at a time if the pan will not accommodate all of them with space in between. Brown the meat turning to get an even crust all the way around. Remove them to a plate when done.

  4. Lower the heat to medium low and add the celery, carrots and diced chiles. Sauté to sweat them for 2-3 minutes until they are softened, not browned. Add the pepper flakes (if using) and the dice the rest of the garlic and add it. Add any herbs you are using and  season generously with salt and pepper. 

  5. Add the turkey pieces and ⅔ cup of wine, and cover.

  6. Bring to a simmer and let the turkey braise for 1-2 hours, or until very tender, turning occasionally and making sure that there is enough braising liquid. Add more stock or water if necessary.

* Cooks notes: The turkey legs have thick tendons running down the bone. At the base of the leg they are just under the skin. You can sever them with a sharp knife or even cut off the very tip of the leg with a cleaver. This is not absolutely necessary but it allows the meat to become more tender during cooking. If using wings, cut off the wing tip.

 

A pot with high sides like a dutch oven, will prevent the splatter from browning the turkey.

Buon Appetito!


Comments

Post a Comment