Salt Cod and Sour Cherries (Bacala and Amarena)


 Salt Cod and Sour Cherries (Bacala and Amarena)

“ Salt cod is a staple of many European and Mediterranean cuisines. Salting and dring the whole fish was a way to preserve it for transport from the northern cold waters, where it was caught in plentiful amounts, all over the old world before refrigeration existed. It is said that stockpiles of it often saved midevil cities during a siege. Sour cherries are different from the red american bing cherries and other sweet cherry varieties we find at the grocery store, although some farmers do grow them, so they might be found at farmers markets. Sour cherries are native to Europe and Asia and are a different species, with two main varieties, Morello and Amarelle and can be found canned. I have found canned Morello cherries at my local grocery, but also look in ethnic specialty food stores.


Salting and drying fish of various species has been practiced in Italy for centuries. When it is reconstituted in water, and the salt is soaked away, the resulting flesh has a unique texture and flavor when cooked.  To me knowing exactly when the right amount of salt has been purged is the key to the flavor and texture in the final preparation.  I think of this process as a way of ‘cooking’ the cod as it denatures and transforms the proteins during the drying and rehydration of the fish.  Some dishes call for leaving a good amount of the salt in to produce the authentic flavor, but ingeneral it is a matter of personal preference.  When all of the salt is completely removed it results in a bland product, so taste it while you are soaking to know when it is just right. Also different brands behave differently according to the process used to salt and dry it. There are many brands available in the US.  I usually use a Canadian brand which comes in a 1 pound wooden box.  It takes about 36 hours to get it ready to cook, so plan ahead!”


Serves 2-4

Ingredients:

  • ½ to ¾ pound of boneless, skinless salt cod

  • 1 medium onion, chopped

  • 1 clove of garlic, chopped 

  • 1 stalk of celery, chopped

  • ¼ cup of olive oil

  • 1 can of pitted sour cherries

  • 1 tablespoon of tomato paste

Procedure:

  1. Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat.

  2. Add the celery, onion garlic and when they are just softened, add the tomato paste, stirring it in allowing it to ‘cook in’ to the vegetables for 2-3 minutes.

  3. Add the pitted sour cherries and the juice from the can and allow them to heat through, bringing everything to a simmer.

  4. Place the salt cod pieces on top of the cherries and vegetables and cover the pan, and cook over a low simmer for about 15-30 minutes until the salt cod pieces are firm but tender. 

  5. Taste and adjust the seasoning

  6. Serve at any temperature.


Buon Appetito!


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